Siwa

I have many favorites.  Favorite book?  I have five.  Favorite cuisine?  No less than three.  And best friend?  Forget about it.  I have ten!

But Siwa is unquestionably my favorite place to visit outside of Cairo.  Pull up a chair and let me share with you my favorite Siwan gems and tell you how to find them. 

Jamila’s essential guide to fun and adventure in Siwa

Before you go: Choose a place to stay.  A quick internet search will reveal many hotels and “camps” in Siwa, but which one to choose?  Here are three recommendations for a range of budgets.

Shoestring – Palm Trees Hotel.  I have stayed here a number of times – with children – and can testify that it is positively the cheapest place to stay in Siwa.  It is bare bones, the beds are uncomfortable, and it is not especially clean, but it does have a lot of charm and a friendly staff.  And you can’t beat its central location (within the main square, which locals call “the souq”).  Bring bug spray for the mosquitoes in the winter and don’t come in the summer.  The rooms do not have AC and the fans do NOT suffice.  Book via WhatsApp (20 100 839 8518) or telephone (20 127 006 7137).

Mid-range – Siwa Safari Gardens Hotel (also known as the Siwa Gardens Hotel).  Siwa Gardens offers comfortable singles and doubles and (gasp!) a cold spring right on the premises.  Just jump right in!  Siwa Gardens is also relatively close to the souq and easily accessible by private or public transportation.  Contact the resident manager, Suzi, for a reservation via the hotel FB page.

And finally, for a truly 5-star experience, contact Camilla Ainley.  I say “experience” because not only does Camilla pamper her guests, she utilizes her extensive contact list to connect visitors with a wide range of authentic adventures.  With Camilla’s help, you can dabble (or dive!) into ceramics, Siwan cooking, local architecture, soap-making, naturopathy, date and olive harvesting, harpoon making (yes! I am not joking)…the list goes on.  Children are absolutely welcome at Camilla’s properties.

Now that you’ve booked your accommodations, you are ready to plan your trip.  The following four-day plan is a curated list of the essential Siwan adventures, listed in a logical order, taking in consideration the needs of families with children.  

As you read through the proposed itinerary, you’ll begin to wonder how you will travel to and from all these exotic-sounding places.  Not to worry.  If you do not bring your own car, you may either arrange for a private driver through my personal recommendation (contact Adel via WhatsApp at 20 101 442 0314) or engage any one of a number of local “tuk-tuk” drivers standing ready at the souq.  A ride in a Siwan tuk-tuk ranges from bumpy to uncomfortable, but these hardy little tricycle trucks will get you where you need to go cheaply and your children will adore it.  Look for the trucks with benches and a sunshade.  Always ask a local person at your hotel how much he or she would pay to get to where you hope to go and then use that as your basis for negotiation with the driver.

Day 0: Unless you plan to travel to Siwa from Cairo by plane, you will need to plan for an entire day of travel.  Whether by car (minimum 8 hours) or by bus (approximately 12 hours), it’s a long drive.  Once you arrive in Siwa and get settled in your new digs, go for a hot meal at Abdu’s in the souq.  I recommend the couscous.  

Day 1: 

• Explore Shali Fortress
  1. free
  2. plan on two hours minimum

• Take a dip in the Bride’s Spring (local Siwan name: Tamuusi)
  1. free, unmonitored, and unmarked, so be looking hard for it on your left as you head toward it on the road leading away from the souq
  2. plan on up to one hour
  3. bring swimsuits, goggles, and a towel
  4. women bathers should wear leggings and a t-shirt
  5. this is a cold spring but comfortably so (I’ve jumped in mid-day during January) 
  6. expect to find some algae on the surface of the spring that can be easily pushed away by a long palm frond
  7. no bathroom or changing area 
  8. don’t be surprised if you are joined by local men and boys who literally come with soap in hand and intending to bathe

• Return to your lodgings to clean up.

• Get ful and falafel sandwiches to go from the sandwich stand in the souq for lunch.

• Walk or drive to the Mountain of the Dead.
  1. admission varies based on nationality and age
  2. plan on up to one hour
  3. the tombs are mostly empty but they are fun to explore, and the 360 degree view of the entire Siwa Oasis justifies the trip

• Return to the souq and begin scouting out souvenirs such as Siwan dates, olive oil, and lemongrass (my three personal favorites).  Lemongrass (local Siwan name: loowayza) is essentially non-existent in Cairo; in Siwa people drink it day and night.  I’ve learned my lesson and always buy one full kilo of lemon grass per visit.  Same with olive oil; I buy as many liters as I can handle, considering it is half the price of supermarket olive oil in Cairo and certainly of superior quality.  And the dates.  Siwan dates are famous and so affordable (are you sensing a pattern here?).  Even if you aren’t a date lover, I recommend you buy a few boxes for neighbors and co-workers.  If you enjoy shopping in the souq as much as I think you will, you might consider lingering until you are hungry for dinner rather than returning to your hotel. 

• Walk from the souq to the famous Ali Aleiwa Restaurant and dine on “Abu Mardem” (chicken/beef/veggies cooked underground)
  1. the basic meal (meat, salad, bread, and tahina) starts at approximately 100LE
  2. make sure you scout out the place where they are cooking in the underground ovens and watch the process – it is fascinating!

Day 2: 

• Start at the Temple of Amun (also known as the Temple of the Oracle and locally as Alexander’s Temple).
  1. admission varies based on nationality and age
  2. plan on one hour minimum
  3. excellent for exploring – kids adore it

• Take a dip and lunch at Cleopatra’s Spring (popular among tourists and may be crowded!)
  1. free access to the spring, bathrooms, and changing area
  2. drinks, food, and souvenirs available for purchase
  3. plan on approximately one hour 
  4. bring swimsuits, goggles, and a towel
  5. women bathers should wear leggings and a t-shirt

• Desert safari
  1. price starts at 350LE/person for half-day
  2. includes 4X4ing in the sand dunes, sandboarding, fossil hunting, traditional “Abu Mardem” dinner, sunset, and campfire
  3. plan on at least four hours
  4. contact Adel at 20 101 442 0314 to book your safari

Day 3: 

• Float in any one of the hundreds of little Salt Lakes.
  1. free, unmonitored, and unmarked – you can stop at any salt lake the strikes your fancy
  2. plan on two hours minimum (including transportation time – it is bit of a hike)
  3. bring swimsuits, goggles (to protect your eyes), extra sandals or water shoes, a couple of bottles of freshwater to wash off with, and a towel
  4. children may find the rocky shore and salty water painful, so take care
  5. consider taking some of the salt home with you for homemade salt baths 

• Rinse off the salt and relax at Al Maza Hot Spring (local name: Aman Yaqdin).
  1. admission is 50LE/adult, children are free
  2. food and drink available for purchase (you may want to try the strawberry and lemongrass smoothie…you’ll start putting lemongrass in all your smoothies after this)
  3. bathrooms and basic changing area available
  4. plan on one hour minimum (but expect that you may never want to leave)
  5. bring swimsuits, goggles, and a towel
  6. bring enjoy this locally produced film about the spring before you go

• Enjoy the sunset and a beverage at Fatnas Island and Spring.
  1. access to the “island” is free but the management would appreciate it if you  order a beverage
  2. time your visit so that you arrive 30 minutes before sunset
  3. bring swimsuits, goggles, and a towel if you want to take another dip in the spring
  4. consider asking your tuk-tuk driver to wait for you so your ride back into town is secure (alternatively you can start walking back and catch a ride on a donkey cart) 

• Return to the souq and dine at Abdu’s.

Day 4: 

• Explore Shali one last time and finally buy that hand-beaded bag you’ve been eyeing. 
• Rent bikes and ride them to the Bride’s Spring for a final dip in this, my favorite Siwan spring.
• Keep riding 3 km east on that road until you reach Siwa’s olive oil mill, see the magic happen right before your eyes, and buy olive oil straight from the source. 
• Return to your hotel, pack up and prepare for the trip home.
• Go to Abdu’s for dinner (or any other place you’ve discovered at this point) and shop in the souq and/or and return to Al Maza Hot Spring for one more soak and dinner.

*For all outings: wear comfortable shoes, modest clothing (sleeves and pants for adults), and sun protection.

At this point, you are probably ready to pack your bags and head to Siwa immediately.  That’s the spirit!  If researching the dickens out of a place is your thing, go for it; but you could also set off today for Siwa knowing you have this essential guide – carefully planned to maximize your time and reduce your anxiety – at your fingertips.  Trust me!  See you in Siwa!