Anafora

(The Underground Church, Anafora)

It’s true: I have a bit of a reputation.  My friends (even local ones) know they can ask me where to go and how to get there.  If I don’t know, I know how to find out.  So then imagine my friend’s surprise (and unabashed delight) when she told me she had discovered a place – a real gem – that I had never even heard of beforeAnafora – a farm and retreat center on the road to Alexandria.

(The fountain and pool, Anafora)

I’ll be honest: I didn’t rest easy until I had a chance to visit it for myself.  It has since become one of our family’s favorite getaways, and we just love introducing it to friends.  So read on, friends, and start mentally clearing your schedule for a day trip or overnight visit to this truly unique desert retreat.

(Astonishingly immaculate and manicured grounds, Anafora)

The Daytrip

I recommend you arrive early – even in time for breakfast at 8am.  Breakfast, you ask?  Yes!  Food is prepared and served buffet-style to all guests at 8am, 12pm, and 5pm.  You will want to try to enjoy as many of the farm-fresh, home cooked meals as you can during your visit.  The menu is seasonal but always features vegetarian and meat dishes, salads, fruits, grains, tea and coffee.  Between us, the food is one of my favorite parts of an Anafora visit.  Note: It’s healthy and decidedly Mediterranean, so parents should be aware and bring alternatives for particular children.

(Lunch Buffet, Anafora)

The rest of your day is wide open.  You can explore each part of Anafora methodically; just consult the adorable hand-crafted map posted outside the main “villa” and comb through the grounds thoroughly.  Alternatively, just take off and see where your feet lead you.  Eventually you’ll find the highlights, which include:

  • The Villa: dining room, bathrooms, library, art room
  • The Chalets: you may sleep in these and/or play on top of them (yes, parkour on the roofs is allowed!)
  • The Pool: perfect in the summer, closed in winter
  • The Amphitheatre: great for exploration, photos, a uniquely fun playground, and the location of the nightly prayer service
  • Meditation Rooms: these architectural delights dot the grounds and are fun to discover and explore
  • The Farm: they have ostridges!
  • The Handicraft Workshops: Weaving, painting, candle-making – all non-profit and welcome visitors and helpers
  • The Gift Shop: handmade and locally-produced bags, clothing, decorative items, beauty products, olive products, date products, other edibles (my kids enjoy visiting the gift shop several times per visit, even if we don’t buy anything!)
  • The Thrift Shop: located in a room behind the Gift Shop, non-profit, and truly unique to Egypt (believe me, as a thrift-shop junkie, I should know)
  • The Kiosks: two little stands that sell market-price snacks and drinks (also thrilling for my kids for some reason)
  • The Bible Garden: life-sized recreations of Noah’s Arc, the Tabernacle, the Red Sea, and an ancient olive press
  • The Underground Church: literally located a few feet below ground level and covered ceiling to floor with murals and rugs (I’ve never seen anything like it and believe me – I’ve seen a lot of churches)

And more!  We do hit the ground running at Anafora but somehow we have not explored every square inch.  That’s your job!  If you are up to the challenge, book a chalet and stay a night or two.  Now you have time to really explore. 

(Meditation Room, Anafora)

The Overnight Trip

The chalets are quaint, comfortable, and have multiple beds to accommodate families.  They are also equipped with air conditioners, but I have never stayed the night in the full heat of summer and so cannot comment on how comfortable it would be.  I have stayed in the winter, however, and advise you to bring warm PJs and possibly your own sleeping bags to supplement the lovely blankets provided in each room.

The evenings are quiet at Anafora, but that’s exactly the point.  I recommend you swing by the Amphitheatre for the nightly prayer service; even if you do not actually attend the service or only observe from the sidelines, you will be enchanted by the sight of the candlelit theater illuminated against the night sky.  And speaking of flames, you can light a fire in any one of the firepits and roast marshmallows. 

(The Amphitheatre, Anafora)

Plan Your Trip

How to make a reservation: You may submit your reservation request online or via email to Sister Theodora: anafora@anforaegypt.com. What and how to pay: Anafora operates on donations for day use, meals, and overnight visits.  No particular price is set.  The donation box is located in the Villa; simply put the amount you wish to donate in the box before you leave.

(Handmade rugs, Handicraft Workshops, Anafora)

What to bring: Water and snacks are available for purchase at Anafora, so kids might want to bring a bit of pocket change.  Adults may want a bit more for locally produced olive oil, candles, and other souvenirs.  My teenage daughter always plans on making a large haul at the thrift shop; yours may want to as well.  Bring your bathing suit and goggles for use in the pool in the summer and super warm PJs and marshmallows for roasting for the winter.  The library has a surprisingly good selection, but I recommend bringing books, journals, sketch pads, etc. as a supplement.

(Rest and relaxation, Anafora)

Who can come: You may bring your active (read: noisy) children to Anafora (I do) but the staff will ask that they respect other guests’ peace and quiet.  The fact is, Anafora is so large that there is plenty of space for your kids to run around and be loud away from the meditating adults. 

(Olive Press, Bible Garden, Anafora)

Another question I am frequently asked is if Muslims are allowed in Anafora.  Anafora is run by Coptic Christian nuns, but guests of any affiliation – or none at all – are absolutely welcome.  I have brought Muslim friends with me to Anafora.  I do seek confirmation in advance with the reservations staff that my friends will be admitted and they always assure me it will be fine.  And it always does turn out to be fine.  This could change, however, due to a change in the political climate, so please do confirm before you go.

(The Underground Church, Anafora)

And finally, how to get there and away: It is easiest to travel to and from Anafora by private car.  When you arrive, you may be asked to show your ID to the guards and the doorkeeper.  Simply show your ID and state that you have made reservations with “Sister Theodora” and will proceed to the Villa to check in.  This done, continue down the gorgeous tree-lined path for an additional kilometer until you reach the Villa.  Here you may park, check in, use the bathrooms, get a cup of tea, and start your amazing day at Anafora.

(Meditation Room, Anafora)

You can also take an Uber to Anafora but it may be difficult to find a car for the return trip.  In a pinch, exit from the main gate, carefully cross the highway, and catch any Cairo-bound minibus.  Or you can hitchhike your way back.  I may or may not have hitchhiked back to town from Anafora once or twice.

So there you have it – Anafora.  It is bound to be your family’s new favorite getaway as well.  See you there!

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