(Al-Hakim Mosque, Mu’iz Street)
By now you’ve probably visited Khan al-Khalili. Perhaps while there you’ve bought some souvenirs, indulged in some feteer at al-Fatatery, or visited the famous al-Hussein mosque. Well, today my intention is to help you spice up your next visit to Khan al-Khalili. Sure, go ahead, visit your favorite alabaster shop for another sphynx or scarab, but then I want you to expand your repertoire by taking a walk down Mu’iz Street – a gem of a street beloved by locals but almost entirely unknown to tourists and expatriates. Today’s walking tour will feature the northern end of the street, starting from this central point in Khan al-Khalili and continuing all the way to Bab al-Futuh.
(Lamps and antiques on Mu’iz Street)
You will want to take an Uber to any point near al-Hussein mosque or Khan al-Khalili. Make your way to this point and begin walking north on Mu’iz Street toward Bab al-Futuh. You’ll pass a number of sebils (public wells), madrasas (schools), and mosques. Many of these gorgeous structures are nearly one thousand years old. Try to explore at least one of these each time you come to Mu’iz Street. Some are open to the public; others require a ticket, a tip, or an appointment.
(Sebil, Mu’iz Street)
For your first visit, I recommend stopping in to visit al-Aqmar Mosque. You may enter al-Aqmar and explore if you avoid prayer times, dress conservatively, and tip the door keeper. Cross the door keepr’s palm with some additional Egyptian pounds and ask to climb up the minaret.
(al-Aqmar Mosque, Mu’iz Street)
As you make your way to Bab al-Futuh, keep your eyes open for architectural delights, antiques, and funky bits of Egyptian culture all around you. One example of the latter is the Umm Kalthoum Cafe. The cafe – celebrating the beloved Egyptian singer – is fine, but the real draw is the gang of life-sized muppets occupying the balcony across the street. The muppets – which are surely meant to evoke bygone era vibes – both amuse and creep out my kids. Don’t miss them!
(Umm Kalthoum Cafe, Mu’iz Street)
You will find several restaurants, fast food spots, and kiosks along the way, with the number of options and variety increasing the closer you get to Bab al-Futuh. Before you cross through this medieval city gate and end your tour, stop in at al-Hakim Mosque. This is one of my favorite mosques in the city, but it is currently under construction and they won’t let you wander around freely as we have been able to do in the past. A small donation, however, will gain you access to the upper level of the mosque. Get your camera ready and be prepared for an unforgettable view.
(al-Hakim Mosque, Mu’iz Street)
Linger a bit as you pass through the massive Bab al-Futuh and daydream a little about the Cairo of yesteryear. From this point you can easily order an Uber and be on your way.
(Bab al-Futuh, Mu’iz Street)
Hot tip: try visiting Mu’iz Street during Ramadan after sunset. It is where all the youth of Cairo come out to see and be seen. Keep your wallets, purses, and wits close about you and get ready for a wild ride.
(Ramadan Nights on Mu’iz Street)
Mu’iz Street is one of those places you can visit again and again. There is so much to see that you could not possibly take it all in in just one visit. If you live in Cairo, make it part of your circuit when entertaining guests. Find your own favorite nooks and crannies and share them with me. I’ll be looking for you there!
