Beni Suef

By this point during your time in Egypt, you may have noticed that the country is divided up into governorates.  You’ve probably spent all of your time in the Cairo or Giza governorates, with the exception of a trip or two to Alexandria or Aswan.  Today I’d like to convince you to take a little trip to the governorate of Beni Suef.  

(Ride horses in Beni Suef)

Now before I go any further, I need to make a disclaimer.  I’ve only ever visited Beni Suef as the guest of our dear friend Mahmoud.  We’ve been invited to weddings, his son’s seven-day birthday or sebou, and countless family dinners.  We’ve sailed on the Nile and roasted corn on its banks.  We’ve ridden horses and picked mullberries.  We’ve made bataw (local Nubian bread) with the ladies of the house.  We’ve lounged on straw mats out under the stars in Mahmoud’s fields, chatting the night away.  Bottom line, we’ve enjoyed unparalleled hospitality.  These kinds of experiences cannot be replicated without a local friend.  

(Bake Nubian bread in Beni Suef

Here’s what you need to do.  Maybe you didn’t know this, but all of your Egyptian friends in Cairo have a hometown –  a place they go for holidays and weddings.  Their parents may live there, or their grandparents, aunts, and uncles.  It’s called a balad.  What I want you to do is ask your local friends “Baladak eh?” (Where do your people come from?).  Their first response will be to praise you for your mastery of Arabic.  Accept the compliment graciously.  But then listen closely to what they say next.  They will say the name of their balad, and it will likely be a place you will have never heard of before, such as Sohag, Tanta, Monufia, or el-Minya.  

(Enjoy a traditional meal in Beni Suef)

If you are in luck, one of your friends will say Beni Suef.  Don’t be shy.  Ask if you can plan a visit together!  I assure you that the answer will be yes.  Your friend will arrange everything.  The only thing you will need to do is book an entire day for the visit and be prepared to sit and talk to all of your friend’s relatives and beloved friends.  You will be taken to multiple homes and drink many cups of tea and soda.  And of course – you will make indelible memories.

(Make traditional bread in Beni Suef)

If, however, you cannot find a local friend or you prefer to explore Beni Suef solo, don’t be afraid to strike off on your own.  You’ll want to visit the Meidum Pyramid – one of Egypt’s oldest – and the Monastery of the Virgin Mary.

(Visit the Meidum Pyramid of Beni Suef)

Transportation:  Obviously, a private car is the easiest way to get to Beni Suef, but you can take a minibus.  I’ve done that once!  

(Learn to drive a tuk-tuk in Beni Suef)

I’ve mentioned the concept of “street cred” on this blog more than once.  Believe me; spend a day with a friend in Beni Suef and your street cred will increase by powers of ten.  But more importantly, you’ll have solidified your friendship with your neighbor, colleague, or co-worker from Beni Suef.  You will have made a singular memory that will outlive memories of trips to el-Gouna and Sharm el-Sheikh.  Trust me.  I hope to see you there!

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