Egyptians love holidays. And really, who doesn’t? So when Egyptian Labor Day, Coptic Easter, and Sham al-Naseem all fall within the same week, you know what’s going to happen. We’re going to have a 5-day weekend, that’s what.
I’m not complaining! But my kids are – or maybe just a tiny bit – because of ringa and fiseekh. What in the world are ringa and fiseekh, you ask? Excellent question. Read on.
Sham al-Naseem is an ancient Egyptian holiday celebrating the arrival of spring. This year, Sham al-Naseem fell in early May. Who do they think they’re kidding anyway? It’s already summer in Cairo.
As you might expect, some people dye eggs and hang decorations in celebration of Sham al-Naseem. Besides gleefully taking a day off, the only other obvious tradition is the eating of smoked and fermented fish.
(Dying eggs on Sham al-Naseem)
You can find these “delicacies” on display in any grocery store a few days before Sham al-Naseem. Other than prompting an “ewww!” from my kids, these displays of fermented fish don’t really deserve this level of criticism and, in fact, are probably as enticing to Egyptians as stacks of eggnog cartons might be to Americans around Christmastime. And just like eggnog, not everyone actually likes ringa and fiseekh. But it’s a tradition all my Egyptian friends claim to indulge in every year.
(Move over, cheese and deli meats; it’s time for Shami al-Naseem)
Doubtless you are wondering: have I, Jamila, tried ringa and fisekh? Need you ask? But once was enough. Since that memorable day I’ve been satisfied with watching others partake of the salty and fermented stuff. I’ve also enjoyed researching the traditions and culture surrounding it. My favorite find is this comedy sketch by actor Ahmed Amin, which attempts to explain the origins of fiseekh. You’ll need an Arabic speaker with you to fully get the joke. Show it to a local friend and watch your street cred double.
(This was my actual plate one year on Sham al-Naseem)
If you, like me, fancy fresh over fermented fish, please head straight to one of my favorite seafood restaurants. In Cairo, it’s Asmak: If in Alexandria, it’s the popular chain Arous al-Bahr. And of course, when in Hurghada, you can’t miss Starfish. That’s where you’re likely to find me this Sham al-Naseem. I’ll see you there!
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