If you didn’t get the reference in the title to the iconic Mr. T, playing the antagonist in Rocky III, don’t feel too bad. Sometimes I just have to let my age show a little. See, I’ve been around the sun a few times and I feel like this qualifies me to make a few declarations. Such as: “Star Wars” is the best movie of all time and No band will ever exceed the greatness of “U2.” I know. These are bold statements, but I’ve earned the right.
That’s why I do not hesitate to make another bold assertion as often as possible to all who will listen: al-Sheikh is the best fuul and ta’amiya sandwich stand in Maadi. Located no more than a meter or two from the train tracks, we found this hole-in-the-wall back when we had a membership to the Maadi Public Library. Always determined to take advantage of an unlimited membership, I hauled my crew to the library at least twice a week for a year. Even though we read every book in the English section in the children’s library within six months, I was relentless. Twice a week.
The view from our favorite fuul and ta’amiya stand in Maadi
Our way to the library took us along a busy and entirely unremarkable road bordered by a wall that has definitely seen better days. It did not take us long to wonder what might lie beyond this wall. The wall itself wasn’t what intrigued us; it was the arched doorway at about the halfway mark that beckoned. The day we tentatively poked our heads through this doorway was the day we found the al-Sheikh fuul and ta’amiya stand. And what a delicious day that was.
The door to deliciousness
Now, maybe we need to pause a moment for a brief tutorial. Fuul is a dish of stewed fava beans, usually cooked overnight and underground in a large pot called an ‘idra. It is typically blended up and mixed with lemon, cumin, chili pepper, and zeyt har (flaxseed oil).
Ta’amiya (commonly known as falafel outside of Egypt) is a deep-fried ball of ground fava beans, garlic, and fresh herbs.
There’s something about the shape of an ‘idra that produces the best-tasting fuul
The fuul and ta’amiya combo are the Egyptian equivalent of bacon and eggs (if my Muslim friends will pardon the connection). Paired with local baladi bread, it’s a nourishing and satisfying meal.
You can easily make fuul at home. I’ve made it plenty of times, either in a dimesa or in a crock pot. Here’s a recipe to get you started. DIY ta’amiya is also within your reach. Either buy the pre-made “batter” directly from your local ta’amiya stand and fry it up yourself, or start completely from scratch. I’ve done both many times. Here’s my favorite from-scratch recipe.
<<insert video clip here>>
(All you need are chickpeas, herbs, and a mixer)
One way of eating fuul and ta’amiya is as a sandwich, made right there for you in the shop and taken on the go. An alternative for those without a pressing appointment is the table spread version. In this scenario, you are served stainless steel dishes of steaming fuul and ta’amiya, pickles, fried eggplant, salad, and baladi bread. After that, it’s no holds barred. Just dig in by tearing off pieces of bread and scooping up the various dishes of deliciousness as fast as you can.
Follow the smell of deep-fried ta’amiya
Naturally, I have a few recommendations. Go here for the absolute best fuul and ta’amiya in downtown Cairo and here in Giza and here in…oh, just go out and try a place! I feel certain I’ll start hearing you claim you’ve found the best fuul and ta’amiya place in all of Cairo. And you know what? You’ll probably be right.
