Our best friends are the Egyptian equivalent of “snowbirds.” Around mid-May each year they abandon us for the cooler temperatures of Alexandria and remain there until October. You can see I’m not at all bitter.
To ease the pain of separation, we schedule periodic visits to Alexandria throughout the summer. This is why we have come to know this Mediterranean town so intimately.
The ancient Roman theatre in Alexandria is an established favorite of ours
It didn’t take long to figure out that Alexandria is home to some of the best seafood in Egypt. My kids, however, are not fish fans, which means I have been compelled to point my inner foodie in other directions. If you want to experience something outside the typical tourist circuit and try something completely authentic, you’ve come to the right place. Follow me!
al-Nasr al-Shaaby Restaurant, located in the heart of Alexandria’s XXX district, is famous for its “soul food” – all of your favorite home-cooked Egyptian dishes, as good or better than your mama makes them. Molokhia, mahshi, macarona bechamel – al-Nasr Restaurant offers a mouth-watering change from street food and pizza.
Missing mama’s home cooking? Eat at al-Nasr Restaurant!
Not far from al-Nasr Restaurant you will find a labbaan – a distributor of fresh (raw) milk. A raw milk distribution facility isn’t particularly remarkable, in and of itself. Most Egyptians buy raw milk from such facilities and pasteurize it over the stove at home. You’ll find a labbaan in every residential neighborhood across Egypt. What sets the Wadi al-Nile labbaan apart from your average labbaan is that there are tables at which you can sit and enjoy a cup of warm milk, yoghurt, or moz bi-laban. Even Egyptians find this quaint.
Now, to be honest, not all Iskandroni treats are what I would call mouth-watering. Take hawawshi, for example. Alexandria is famous for its hawawshi – meat pastry – but I find the street version unappealing. Homemade hawawshi, however, is an entirely different story. I make it for special occasions and my kids simply die for it. Try this recipe!
Mushabak – Alexandrian funnel cake
There are a few other snacks unique to Alexandria that we’ve tried once, twice, and then never again. We still regard these items fondly, however…from afar. Mushabak is one of these items. Take it from me – mushabak tastes exactly like soap. Yes, soap. Try it if you don’t believe me.
And here’s a picture of Alexandrian ka’ak. Looks amazing, don’t you think? Well, looks can be deceiving. While it looks like it might be buttery and flakey, Ka’ak is, in fact, bland and dry. I recommend you look, but don’t taste. Or then again, maybe just try it. You really oughta try these things once.
Food is such an integral part of any Alexandrian experience. Whether it be steak grilled to order at the shi-shi Fresh Food Market at the San Stefano mall, calamari from the White & Blue, or even a simple ice cream from Azza, your taste buds work hand-in-hand with your other senses to create indelible memories. Bil hana wa shifa!
