When I lived in Cairo as a young single woman back in 2004-2005, I started looking for volunteer opportunities. Friends pointed me toward an English school located deep within the neighborhood known as “Coptic Cairo.” I found myself teaching English there two times a week. I made excellent friends and, as a result of those friendships, became intimately acquainted with Egypt’s Coptic community and culture.
Aside from forming enduring friendships, the thing I enjoyed the most about this volunteer teaching experience was my biweekly descent into the walled mini-city of Coptic Cairo. I say “descent” because the foundations of several of the churches in the area are over 1800 years old and are situated significantly lower than the current street level. Somehow, the sunken pedestrian streets of Coptic Cairo provide a shady haven from the bustle of the city above.
How to get to this city-within-a-city? Take an Uber (put in “Hanging Church”) or take the Metro. If you take the Metro, get off at the “Mar Girgas” station and look at the skyline on either side of the tracks for the white dome of the Church of St. George. This is the east side of the Metro line; get off on this side. Once you exit the Metro station, put your back to the tracks and there you are – facing the neighborhood of Coptic Cairo. Take your pick: start your tour with the Hanging Church, the Roman Babylon Fortress, the Coptic Museum, the churches and cemetery of the Greek Orthodox church compound, or the stairs leading down to the labyrinth of churches, convents, and monasteries below the street level.
You may get a bit lost as you wind your way through the hushed streets of Coptic Cairo. That’s okay. Allow yourself to drift. If you follow the signs you will eventually find all of the various monasteries, convents, and churches. You’ll even find a synagogue, but it is closed for repairs and the reopening date is unknown. Bring a guidebook and be on the lookout for your own new favorite places.
Have I inspired you to really explore Coptic Cairo? I hope so. The next obvious question then is when to go? In general, any day other than Sunday 10am-2pm is the best time to visit for full access to the churches.
(Another one of our favorite doors (and I challenge you to find it!), Coptic Cairo)
My insider tip for you today, however, is to visit Coptic Cairo on Orthodox Palm Sunday. On this special day of the year, you will find yourself knee-deep in palm fronds and shoulder-to-shoulder with local Coptic Christians joyfully celebrating the first day of Orthodox Holy Week.
Palm Sunday is the perfect day to bring children to Coptic Cairo. Let’s be honest: what kid doesn’t want a crown or sword woven from palm fronds? Rather than yawn – or complain – their way through the maze of churches and courtyards, your kids will skip alongside you willingly with their palm frond scepters or swords in hand.
So where will you be next Orthodox Palm Sunday? Coptic Cairo with me, of course. Wander. Explore! Find a holy well. Find a favorite mosaic, icon, or tomb. Watch as your kids learn how to weave palm fronds into something beautiful. See you there!
