Downtown Cairo

It seems like most people I know – including Egyptians – only go downtown to visit the Cairo Museum or to renew a driver’s license at the dreaded Mogamma.  And what with the new Grand Egyptian Museum opening in “late” 2023, will there be any point in going downtown if the iconic Egyptian Museum is denuded of its most famous artifacts? 

Yes!  A thousand times yes.  Well, at least five times yes.  Honestly, downtown Cairo is my family’s “go-to” field trip.  It is easy, fun, inexpensive, and, well, the kids never complain.  Today I’ll give you a handful of reasons to visit downtown Cairo, and then you can add to the list once you take Jamila’s Walking Tour of Downtown Cairo and discover something unique on your own.

Are you taking Uber?  Then scroll down to the first stop on the tour.  Otherwise, read on for instructions on taking the Metro.  Really, it is simple.  Get off at the Sadat Metro Station and look for exit signs to the “Egyptian Museum.”  You can exit anywhere you like, really, as it is easy to orient yourself.  Just look for the big pink museum and you’re set.

Before heading off to the museum, just take a moment and breathe in the history around you. This is Tahrir Square, people!  Home of the 2011 Egyptian revolution.  Okay, so if we are being honest, the square itself isn’t much to look at, but do pause and imagine the place filled with more than one million protestors during the “Arab Spring” of 2011.  

Reflection complete, it is time to move on to our first stop on the tour: the Egyptian Museum.  We stop in at the museum to enjoy the courtyard, take photos, and to browse in the giftshop.  The bathrooms (around the back of the museum to the left) are clean and handy for the kids who insisted they didn’t need a bathroom before leaving the house.  Entrance to the courtyard is free.

From there we walk six minutes to the Mashrabia Gallery of Contemporary Art.  Timesaving tip: boldly cross the busy Meret Basha Street here and head straight down Mahmoud Bassiouny Street from this point.  The gallery is named after the carved wood lattice work window screens characteristic of Islamic architecture.  As a side note, I adore mashrabia screens and could probably publish a coffee table book featuring my 1,000 photos of different screens across the city.  The gallery itself features rotating exhibits of modern art; check out the exhibition schedule to confirm that the gallery is open and displaying something suitable and interesting to your family.  In fact, I take my kids here regardless of what is on display.  They love the building’s old elevator and usually find something interesting (or weird) in the gallery to appreciate.

Next stop is what we call the “Gargoyle Street.”  Someday I’ll find out the story behind this, but it would seem that downtown Cairo once enjoyed a gothic renaissance, thereby giving birth to the gargoyles of Youssef al-Gendy Street. 

We usually start this portion of the tour at a little mosque located a short four minutes away from the art gallery.  After enjoying the mosque’s Mediterranean blue tile mosaic, stroll up and down Youssef al-Gendy Street and count the gargoyles.  See if you can find all of them (there’s over 30).  Extra points to anyone who can spot the angels.

By this point, your stomach should be growling.  Well, you are in luck!  In fact, downtown Cairo is home to the best ta’miya (falafel) sandwich in Egypt.  Walk six more minutes to al-Sharouk Restaurant.  Now, prepare yourself.  This tiny take-out joint is hugely popular.  You will likely find the narrow storefront obscured by a mob of hungry customers.  Do not fear.  Just pull out a 20 LE note, wave it in the air, and shout out itneen ta’miya low samaht! (“two falafel sandwiches please!”).  The crowd will part like the Red Sea for you and in no time you’ll be sinking your teeth into the best darn falafel sandwich you have ever eaten in your life.  For the picky eaters in your group, you’ll find a pizza place directly next door (I recommend the rollup “fateer pizzas” with lots of ketchup) or a Beano’s across the street.

Once refreshed, head off to the last place on the tour: the AUC bookstore.  The bookworms in your group will be in heaven.  Everyone else will enjoy the air conditioning and bathrooms.  I rarely buy anything there and yet my kids adore sitting and reading in the cool and the quiet after our “long” walk.  The entrance to the bookstore is a little tricky to find, but this pin should lead you there.  An adult in your group will need to show some ID at the front gate.

And that’s it!  Your work here is done.  You’ll spot the Sadat Metro Station as soon as you step back out onto the street.  As you ride home, replay your adventure together and talk about the hidden gems you discovered on your journey today.  Be in touch; I’ll be waiting to hear about your new favorite stops on Jamila’s Walking Tour of Downtown Cairo.