You know what they say about drinking from the Nile. No, not the bit about bilharzia. The other thing. What they say is that no matter how much time and space may separate you from Egypt, one sip of Nile water has the power to bring you back to Egypt…against all odds.
I know what you are thinking. Bottom’s up! Oh wait, that’s not what you were thinking? Alright, yes, drinking unfiltered Nile water could be hazardous to your health. Or maybe not. Read to the end of this post for a personal story that may change your mind on this point.
But first, joking aside, I want to share with you one way you can really take in the beauty of the Nile–without necessarily taking it inside you.
Sunset felucca ride
Feel free to take a felucca ride at any time of day, but I recommend the “sunset cruise.” One felucca can take up to 20 people, so invite your friends. Call Waleed of Roma Boats to book your boat and tell him the day, time, and number of riders. Tell him Jamila sent you to get the best price.
I suggest that you plan your departure for 30 minutes before sunset, but tell your friends to arrive at Roma Boats at least 15 minutes before you hope to leave to account for late arrivals. Pack a picnic dinner. My favorite felucca meal is koshary. Leave the sugary beverages at home because, well, you’ll find bathrooms pretty scarce out there on the Nile.
The “standard ride” lasts two hours, but you might want to ask for only one hour (at half the price). I find that is just enough time to start feeling like Cleopatra. ّI’m not joking. The sight of a battalion of felucca sails bobbing up and down the Nile like so many papyrus plants makes you feel for just a moment as though you have stepped back in time. Imagine all of this against the stunning backdrop of the setting sun. And, if you stay out for an hour, you’ll enjoy the Cairo nightscape as you return to the shore.
Now, I made you a promise and I intend to keep it. My Nile water story: I currently live in the lush Cairo suburb of Maadi with my family, but once upon a time (2004-2005) I lived in the very inner city neighborhood of Imbaba with an Egyptian friend and her family. I met this girl on a minibus and (true story) I ended up moving in with her.
Initially, I did not speak Arabic and she did not speak English, so there were many miscommunications. One of these miscommunications had to do with drinking water. I gratefully accepted the glassfuls of cold water she offered me under the assumption that she had a water filter. Could I ask if the water was filtered in my beginner’s Arabic? Not on your life.
After months of drinking this water I was finally able to ask my host sister about the source of the water and was shown the kitchen sink. I was stunned. Didn’t they know that tap water could make you sick? That the guides on my college study abroad visit to Egypt even recommended that we brush our teeth with bottled water? My friend just laughed. “Are you kidding me?” she wanted to know. Didn’t I know that Nile water is the cleanest water on Earth? But what she said next turned the whole matter on its head: “Now the water in Kuwait where my brother works…I’d never drink that water.”
Ha! So, it would seem that the drinkability of tap water is based on public opinion, rumor, and maybe also on gut strength. What officials say about it may not actually reflect the water’s quality. And speaking of official directives, the end of this story is like the final drop in the proverbial bucket. Shortly after this conversation with my Egyptian host sister, I traveled to Washington, D.C. to visit another friend, and the first thing I saw upon entering her apartment was a notice from the local water authority posted on the refrigerator. In large red print it read “WARNING: DO NOT DRINK THE TAP WATER UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE.” And there you have it, folks. Your worldview on tap water (and other notions) can change in an instant.
Take my advice: dip your feet – not your tongue – in the Nile, and do it while sitting on the prow of a felucca. I’ll see you out there on the Nile!
