(Siwan desert safari guides on a prayer break)
It was the summer of 2002 and I was a recent graduate with a bachelor’s degree, a backpack, and about $20 in my pocket.
(Yours truly in Siwa in 2002 with some new Siwan friends)
I’m only exaggerating a little about the money. My best friend and I had planned the trip of a lifetime – Cairo to Cape Town to Casablanca, mostly overland – and we had budgeted $20 per country. PER COUNTRY. That’s $1 per day. We were eager to experience Africa like locals, on the local economy. Oh, and we were also broke, what with college loan repayments coming due, etc.
(Bikes for all riders in Siwa)
We were adopted by an expat family almost immediately upon arriving in Cairo who, although extremely adventurous themselves, were surprised and, I think, a bit concerned by our budget constraints. As we left on our journey they presented us with a guide book to Siwa and, tucked inside, was an envelope labeled “Siwa Fun Fund.” You can imagine the contents. Such dear people. I am happy to report that we are still close.
That trip to Siwa was legendary, the stuff of bedtime stories (literally – I told these stories to my kids for years). All I will say about that visit for now is that I never imagined I would return, let alone repeat or add to those adventures.
(Just throw all the kids into a tuk-tuk in Siwa)
Twenty years later and I’ve returned to Siwa many times. Each trip is unique. I have been back to Siwa since writing my initial post (Jamila’s essential guide to fun and adventure in Siwa) and I’m bursting to share a few more recommendations.
- Rather than a recommendation, this first item is a warning: do not attempt to take public transportation to Siwa on the 1st or 2nd day of Eid. The bus schedule will be unreliable and you will probably find yourself stranded at the hot and dusty Marsa Matrouh bus station with your disappointed children for hours. Just sayin’.
(Ride your bike out of town in Siwa)
- I stand by my previous recommendation to rent bicycles. Younger riders might prefer to cycle from the souq (the main square) to the Bride’s Spring. We do this nearly every time and it is a winner. All you need is an hour. Older and stronger riders might like to cycle out to the city limits and into the desert. Pick up your bikes from the souq and ride out towards this point. Stop anywhere you wish and explore. This trip may take up to three hours. Bring water and sunscreen!
(The Great Dune Sea, Siwa)
- I learned on this most recent trip that the olive oil mill is only open during the winter. Who knew? If you want to get your mitts on the most delicious olive oil you’ve ever tasted for half the supermarket price, but find the mill closed or don’t have the time to visit, call or WhatsApp the mill manager (Alaa at 01008665984) and he will deliver it to your hotel. Say Jamila sent you. To be honest, I am not sure if he speaks English, but get translation help if you need it. It is worth it.
(Olives ready for processing at the olive oil mill)
- I mentioned my brilliant friend Camilla Ainley in my previous Siwa post. She introduced us to Hussein, a pottery artisan and overall great guy. You can create beautiful pottery at his workshop right in the middle of the Shali fortress. Call him for an appointment time at 01026082738.
(Hussein’s Pottery Shop, Shali Fortress, Siwa)
- They say Siwa is home to more than 300 freshwater springs. I would love to visit each and every one of them. We were recently introduced to a real gem of a spring in the Om as-Sir district. The road to the spring is not paved. You can rent a 4×4 but we went in a caravan of Siwan tuk-tuks and even a minivan. Watch out, though; if the track is wet, you will get stuck. Note: the spring really is out in the middle of nowhere. There are no bathrooms or amenities of any kind…just palm trees and gorgeous, slightly salty spring water. Oh, and for the daring among you: deep down in the spring you’ll find a cave! Bring your goggles and explore.
(The spring at Om as-Sir, Siwa)
- An update on the desert safari experience: due to some local issues, all desert safari trips (at the time of writing) now require a permit from the Siwan authorities. This will affect the price of the safari. It is still worth it, however, A further note about 4x4ing in the desert: this can be scary for some and make others downright sick to their stomachs. Some people (my children) adore it. Be sure to determine what you and your party can handle in advance and perhaps split up into a “slow car” and a “fast car.”
(Fossils found while on safari in the Great Dune Sea)
It always feels a little bittersweet finishing a post, as though I am closing the cover on a book I deeply loved. The adventure is over…but the promise of the next visit is sweet indeed. I’ll see you in Siwa!
