(Resale shopping at Cairo’s used clothing market)
It was the summer of 2004 and I needed a bathing suit.
I had come to Cairo with the intention of studying Arabic and hadn’t imagined I’d be invited to a pool party. Considering my tight budget, a shopping mall was out of the question. And did they even sell bathing suits in Egypt? I didn’t know.
I asked my Egyptian host sister, and while she personally did not own a bathing suit, she had heard that all kinds of “western” clothes were sold in a market located under the 26th of July bridge in downtown Cairo. I gathered my courage and gave it a try. Little did I know then that this market – the Wikaala – would become my thrift shopping go-to for years to come.
(A rack of clothes for 65LE each at the Wikaala)
To appreciate the Wikaala, you should already enjoy thrift or “resale” shopping. The thrill of the hunt. That rush that comes from searching single mindedly through racks of poorly organized clothing and finding that perfect item…for pennies.
But to really master the Wikaala, you also need nerves of steel. A tolerance for hawkers hawking, horns honking, and a certain amount of tension emanating from those young salesmen without permits who stand poised to dash off with their rack of clothes should the police appear.
(Shopping is hungry work at the Wikaala)
Intrigued? Intimidated? Well, to be honest, it is a bit intimidating, but this post should boost your confidence. Go on, try it out, and then impress your local friends with your insider knowledge.
Transportation: I do not recommend driving your own car to the Wikaala, as parking down there is madness. Really, the best way to get to the Wikaala is by Uber or public transportation. If taking the metro, get off at the Gamal Abd al-Nasser station. Take any exit you like up to the street level. When you emerge from the underground, look for the great 26th of July bridge that connects Cairo to Giza with a brief stop in Zamalek. Once oriented, it won’t take you long to notice the many racks of clothing starting at about here and stretching into the neighborhood beyond.
(Tuk-tuk is the best way to get around the Wikaala)
What to expect: Head toward those clothing racks, taking care of the oncoming traffic. Be warned: this particular area is very noisy and chaotic. Just focus on crossing the street. As you cross, you’ll notice an iron barrier on the other side of the street separating you from the clothing racks; this you will need to skirt around, vault over, or (like the locals) squeeze through a largish gap in the bars.
The racks are actually fairly well-organized according to type (children’s, women’s, men’s) and function (dresses, coats, pants, blouses, etc). Brush up on your Arabic numbers before you go; the price per item is posted in Arabic above each rack. Prices range from 25 Egyptian pounds (LE) to around 125 LE, depending on the item and quality. When I say “quality,” remember that these are all used clothes and what you get is what you get, but clearly stained items will often be weeded out and sold together on the same rack for less.
(Street food is also a fun part of the Wikaala)
Once you find a rack you like, I recommend you really comb through it and try to mine as many gems from it as you can. Each rack is manned by a specific guy and he will want you to settle up with him before you wander away to other racks. Also, the more you buy from any individual salesman, the better deal you can expect to get. My strategy is to look hard and fast through an entire rack and, if I can find more than one item, make an offer slightly lower than the asking price.
(Clothes for days at the Wikaala)
Remember that bathing suit? I found it that day, deep in the Wikaala. And you know what’s fun? I’ve been back to that same shop for bathing suits multiple times with my teenage girls. You, too, can either push deeper under the bridge or stick with the first batch of racks you encounter right out of the gate. Either way, aside from a few exceptions (like the bathing suit guy and the leggings guy), you’ll find more of the same wherever you go in the Wikaala.
We go to the Wikaala at least twice a year; once after we pull out the “summer” clothes (in late March, if we are lucky) and another time after we retire our short sleeves for the “winter” clothes in mid-November. We also usually take a few extra visits per year in order to introduce first-timers. Let me know when you aim to go – we’ll meet you there!