(Stanley Bridge Beach, Alexandria)
Many people visit Alexandria only once, but then return time and time again to the Red Sea beach resorts of Sharm el-Sheikh, Dahab, and Hurgahda. You can’t blame them – the Red Sea is definitely the place to go for scuba and snorkeling – but Alexandria has much to offer to the dedicated visitor.
(Sea glass from Alexandria)
I am one of those dedicated visitors. One of my best friends lives in Alexandria, making it a home away from home for us during the summer months.
(Treasure from the sea in Alexandria)
You, too, can become familiar with Alexandria. It is close enough to Cairo to make the occasional day trip possible for anyone. Allow me to share with you a few favorite places we find ourselves returning to again and again. Some of these are well-known stops on the tourist circuit. Others are hidden gems. As always, I recommend you pick and choose what interests you. Be bold and blaze your own trail. Find your own new favorites.
(View from within Qaitbay Castle)
Things to do: Here’s a list of some of our favorite things to do when in Alexandria:
- Visit Stanley Bridge Beach. This private beach is cheap (day use for the entire family won’t be more than 150LE) and right smack dab in the center of town. The bridge-and-ocean view is picturesque and the little rental cabanas evoke vintage vibes. The beach is conservative (I wouldn’t wear a bikini) and is not especially clean. Yet, we still love it and keep coming back.
(Stanley Bridge Beach, Alexandria)
- Explore Qaitbay Castle, AKA the “Sandcastle.” Any guide book will point you toward this iconic structure but you need to really explore it.
(Qaitbay Castle, Alexandria)
- Eat something cold and sweet at al-Shaykh Wafeeq. Located near Qaitbay Castle, this ice cream parlor is a local favorite and features a truly unique menu. Try the Om ‘Ali (rice pudding).
(Ice cream at al-Shaykh Wafeeq, Alexandria)
- Visit the Library of Alexandria and attend any one of the many shows and events at the Planetarium Science Center.
(Interactive science exhibits at the Library of Alexandria)
- While in the area, have a bite to eat at Casino al-Shatby just down the road from the Library of Alexandria. The food is tasty, the view is lovely, and your kids will enjoy the restaurant’s small menagerie. Once upon a time I spent a month in an apartment across the street from this restaurant, but that’s another story for another time…
(On the beach next to Casino al-Shatby)
- Play around at the ancient Roman theatre. I’m not saying this is a good idea from a preservation perspective, but the staff at the Roman theatre do not seem to mind if your kids do a little parkour on the ancient stones.
(Parkour at the ancient Roman Theatre, Alexandria)
- Descend into the catacombs. My kids never seem to tire of this network of tombs under the old city of Alexandria. Again – this is another place where kids can get away with a little game of hide-and-go-seek or Indiana Jones.
(The catacombs of Alexandria)
- Enjoy nature at the Antoniades Botanical Gardens. This forgotten garden from a bygone era has some real gems, including huge banyan trees with thick vines from which you can actually swing. Within the same compound you will find the Alexandria Zoo. You may want to check it out, but just know that while it is better than the Giza Zoo, it isn’t exactly wonderful.
(Swinging from vines in Antoniades Garden in Alexandria)
- Fly high on the rides at el-Morsi Abu ‘Abas. This historic neighborhood is home to a surprisingly large collection of small amusement park rides. You pay anywhere from 5-15LE per ride. Watch your littles and your pocketbooks. The crowd gets boisterous and as foreigners you will absolutely draw attention. But oh, what an authentic experience!
(Carnival rides at el-Morsi Abu ‘Abbas, Alexandria)
Transportation: It’s a quick two and a half hour drive from Cairo by private car. Parking is abundant in Alexandria. Anywhere you go you’ll find a young man on the street ready to direct you to an available parking spot. You should pay him 10-20LE.
(Antoniades Garden, Alexandria)
You can also take the train. You should know, however, that train travel has become notoriously unreliable in recent years. The three and a half hour “local” train, for example, may take up to six hours. The “express” train should only take two hours, but it may stop on the tracks for an hour. You take your chances, but the perks involve access to a bathroom and space to move around during the trip. Also, both train stations in Alexandria (Sidi Gaber and the main station) are extremely convenient to various attractions and local transportation. Finally, some of the second class local trains are pretty cheap – half the cost of the coach bus and minibus options.
(Second class train to Alexandria)
To take the train, go to Ramses Station, ask for the Alexandria ticket office, and buy your tickets. Bring cash as the credit card reader does not always work. You can buy tickets for the same day, but the earliest trains (8am) will likely be full and you will need to wait until a later train. Alternatively, go to the Maadi Metro Station (Road 7 side,10am-2pm) at least a few days before you intend to travel and buy your tickets. Note that the train to Alexandria departs from Ramses Station, even if you buy the tickets from Maadi.
(Stanley Bridge Beach, Alexandria)
We used to take the train exclusively but have started taking one of the coach bus lines (Go Bus) or a minibus. You may catch either option from Tahrir or Giza. Go Bus follows the schedule provided on its website. The bus may make one to two stops along the way but is otherwise fairly fast.
(Making silly faces at the Library of Alexandria)
I recommend you reserve your seats with Go Bus in advance via the company website. Your credit card may not be accepted on the website. In this case, you will be prompted to pay via a money transfer service, such as Fawry, Aman, or Bee. If you’ve never done this before, here’s your chance! Don’t be intimidated by it. Simply make your reservation, note down the payment code, trot on down to the nearest kiosk offering the payment service you intend to use, provide the name of the service (it matters!) and the payment code to the guy at the kiosk, pay the amount of the ticket plus a small service fee and – voila! – he will give you a receipt that will also serve as your bus ticket. It really is a piece of cake.
(Flying high at el-Morsi Abu ‘Abas)
Minibusses are the easiest and fastest option and require no reservation. They leave as soon as they fill up which, depending on the day and time, may be within minutes of your arrival. The coach buses and mini buses leave from Tahrir and arrive at Alexandria’s new bus terminal at Moharam Bek.
Ah, Alexandria. It might not be as swanky as Sharm al-Sheikh or as funky as Dahab, but it has its history and charm. I love it. This is where you’ll find me each summer, exploring the historic homes, quirky beaches, beloved restaurants, and local hangouts. I’ll see you there!
(Playing around at the catacombs of Alexandria)
