“Romantic” may not be the first adjective that comes to mind when you see a mosque, but the following photo may change your mind.
It was the summer of 2006 and I had just gotten engaged. My fiance and I were traveling in Egypt and I took him to the Citadel to see my favorite mosque in Cairo – the Muhammed Ali Mosque. We took our engagement photo there. Isn’t it amazing?
The Muhammed Ali Mosque is beautiful both inside and out. A beloved feature of the Cairene skyline, you’ve surely seen the iconic Ottoman-style dome and minarets rising out of the #City of the Dead any time you’ve passed through Central Cairo via the Salah Salem corridor.
But wait! There’s more than just the mosque. The formidable foundation and backdrop for this 19th century mosque is the Citadel. Built by the revered Salah ad-Din (Saladin) in the year 1176, the Citadel and the entire Citadel complex – inclusive of the mosque, the medieval castle, cafes, and museums – has something for everyone. Here are a few tips to help you plan your trip and make the most of your visit.
Amenities: As with most places in Cairo, the best time to visit the Citadel is during the cooler months. If your itinerary demands you visit during the summer, bring lots of cold water or prepare to pay a generous markup for water on the grounds of the Citadel. If you are looking for more than water, you’ll find it. The Citadel complex boasts several cafes and restaurants (with a bathroom!) that serve coffee, tea, juice, ice cream, sandwiches, and hot meals. You are also welcome to pack in your own snacks and food. I usually bring a picnic and a blanket and enjoy my meal while taking in the best view Cairo has to offer. Come on a clear day and you’ll be rewarded by a view of the Giza pyramids.
If you are in the mood for a photoshoot, you can dress up in Ottoman-era garb and pose for pictures. You’ll find the shop on the ramp up to the mosque.
Time commitment: Some of your party may want to linger and mediate in the mosque. Others may want to read every placard in the museums within the Citadel complex. Even if you only casually cruise through the grounds, you’ll want to reserve at least one hour for your visit.
Dress code: Visitors enter at the front gate on Salah Salem and ascend approximately one quarter mile up the paved ramp from the ticket booth to the Muhammed Ali Mosque. Wear sensible shoes and prepare to take them off to enter the mosque. Adult visitors to the mosque need not cover their heads but should cover their shoulders, midriffs, and legs.
Things to do: The mosque – Time your visit for the noontime call to prayer (which may actually happen at 1pm, depending on daylight savings time) and you’ll enjoy the excellent acoustics within the mosque. The prison exhibit – My kids are sickly fascinated by the cells. Look in the window of each cell and you’ll be rewarded with a macabre surprise. The Police Museum – This museum is also usually a win with the kids, but does contain some gruesome descriptions of a few horrific crimes in Cairo’s past. The view – As I mentioned earlier, the view can be spectacular if the weather is clear. You may be charged extra at the entrance if you bring in a professional camera. The Citadel – The actual castle ruins are regrettably closed to exploration but make for excellent photographs.
Transportation: You can drive your own car and park in the lot within the Citadel front gate. Uber is also an easy option. Minibusses drop off/pick up from the Sayyida Aisha bus station directly down the street from the Citadel entrance.
Wrapping up: If you live in Cairo, you know that there are some historical sites you tire of visiting time and time again with out-of-town guests. Not so with the Citadel, at least for me. Maybe I’m just a hopeless romantic, but you’ll find me there with everyone I love. I hope to see you there!
