Once upon a time, I lived in Japan. It seems like a dream now, but in my early twenties I spent two years serving as a volunteer in Hokkaido. I dedicated every waking moment (including many sleepless ones) to Japan and its people. You could say I was a little obsessed with understanding Japanese culture and learning the Japanese language. You can imagine, then, the surprise of my friends and family when I did an about-face and threw myself, body and soul, into Egypt and the Middle East.
I may be 100 percent committed to Egypt, but that doesn’t mean I’ve given up on my first love. Japan is an integral part of our family culture, so when I heard about the Japanese garden in Helwan it was only natural that I immediately gather together my kids and go check it out.
(The urban pagodas of the Japanese garden)
According to the Egyptian State Information Service, the Japanese garden “features (fish) ponds, canals, hills and a diverse array of trees.” Built in 1917 by Egyptian architect Zulfaqar Pasha as a refuge for wealthy Egyptians escaping the noise and heat of Cairo in the newly planned city of Helwan, the Japanese garden in Helwan has held up surprisingly well despite her advanced age. All but one of its “ponds and canals” have been drained, but you can still find hills and trees in abundance.
A large Budha greets you at the front gate to assure you of the garden’s authenticity. Its beatific smile politely asks you to ignore the fact that many of its fellow statues (possibly made out of paper maché?) are missing critical parts. But we don’t dwell on these petty details. We prefer, instead, to focus on what the garden does have to offer: a unique, relatively clean, easy-to-reach green space in which kids can run, bike, and play. So what if a few (dozen) of its statues are missing heads. We don’t mind. We just pull out our bentos and enjoy a picnic lunch in the shade of a bonsai tree. We rent a paddleboat (20LE for ten minutes) and cruise around the pond. We climb up the garden’s two hills and explore the pagodas.
(Take a spin around the pond on a paddle boat)
I know what you are saying: I’ve gotta check this place out! Yes, yes you do. Here are a few tips to plan your best trip. You can easily drive or take an Uber to the Japanese garden, but I say – take the metro! If you are coming from Maadi, it is as simple as buying a 7LE metro ticket, hopping on the train heading in the “Helwan direction,” and staying on until the end of the line.
If you do decide to try the metro, exit the main gate of the last metro station and turn left. You’ll pass through a noisy souq. Keep walking ten minutes down this street and you’ll bump right into the Japanese garden.
Alternatively, drive your own personal car or take an Uber. You will find parking directly in front of the garden. Admission is 20LE per person.
You are going to want to bring some food and water. If, however, the adorable picnic you planned to put together never came to fruition, worry not. Pick up a half dozen fuul, ta’amiyya, or french fry sandwiches at this amazing fast food joint on your way.
(New wig – new you!)
And may I make a completely random recommendation? On our most recent trip to the garden we stumbled upon the best wig shop. The shop boasts a wide range of amazing wigs for only 200LE.
Alright, then – it is off to the Japanese garden of Helwan! I’ll see you there!
