If you’ve been following my adventures across Cairo and Egypt this past year, you may have noticed a conspicuous absence: The Great Pyramids of Giza. Have they jetted off into space, back to the alien home planet from whence their builders came? No, they’re still here. But if you’re a long-term resident of Cairo, you’ll understand my silence. Visiting the Great Pyramids can be a bit tiresome, and after your initial visit you’ll probably only go when visitors come into town. (And I hope you’ll forgive me for having a little fun with one of the various theories regarding the pyramids’ origin story. All perspectives are welcome and safe here in this blog!)
(Walk like an Egyptian at…Saqqara!)
But the pyramids of Saqqara are a different story. Read on to see why we continue to explore the mystery that is…SAQQARA!
(“SAQQARA!” by Shaun Parry)
Intrigued? If you’ve been to Saqqara and watched the onsite “introductory” film, you’ve witnessed Egypt’s foremost archeologist and film host Dr. Zahi Hawass’ unparalleled – and justified – enthusiasm for the gigantic funerary complex. The above clip is a recreation of Dr. Hawass’ epic exclamation – SAQQARA! – from the film, performed by one of the many friends we took there and indoctrinated with our love for the place. You really do need to see this little film to fully enjoy the humor of the clip.
(Visit the tombs of…SAQQARA!)
It’s true. While we tend to drag our feet when visiting the Great Pyramids of Giza, we dash off eagerly for a field trip to Saqqara. A trip to Saqqara literally never gets old because they are constantly finding and opening new tombs.
(Visit the step pyramids of…SAQQARA!)
We also love the seclusion. The entrance is 1.5 km off the rural Saqqara road. It’s perhaps this distance that discourages hawkers, another reason for Saqqara’s appeal. You can explore the pyramids and tombs without being persistently offered another statue of Anubis or a camel ride.
(Find peace and quiet at..SAQQARA!)
A related side effect to the seclusion is the lack of guards and other monitors. At least, I’m fairly certain this is what my kids would tell you if you asked them. My kids will climb atop anything if not forbidden to do so. I’m not saying this is a good idea, but I may have looked away once or twice while they did a little parkour atop some ancient ruins.
(Parkour in…SAQQARA!)
Some people combine a trip to Saqqara with a visit to the Great Pyramids. I don’t recommend this. If possible, dedicate your entire day to the Saqqara funerary complex. Take some time to explore the neighboring district as well. Saqqara is located exactly on the line where lush Nile farmland meets the desert. You could head west into the desert, but the onsite tourism police will likely try to stop you. More enjoyable would be an exploration of the rural neighborhood located north- and southeast of the entrance to Saqqara.
(Attend a local arts and crafts festival directly outside the gates of…SAQQARA!)
Transportation: Saqqara is most efficiently navigated by private car. The distances between the tombs are great enough to make exploration by foot too time consuming for visitors on a tight schedule. That said, if you are dropped off at the entrance by Uber, you might find a car and driver for hire within the gates of Saqqara. These vehicles, when available, are not fancy, but they’ll get you where you need to go.
(Can’t find an Uber? Hitch a ride in…SAQQARA!)
Another option for the adventurous is to just wing it. Find your way by minibus to the Saqqara road, get off here, take a tuk tuk to the entrance gate, and then hitch a ride up the mountain to the pyramids and tombs. Once up top, you may find a policeman on an ATV that will agree to drive you from one side of the complex to the other. This, by the way, is literally the only way I have ever toured Saqqara. It’s not for everyone and I can tell you that Saqqara employees don’t exactly like it, but “winging it” is definitely my favorite part of any trip out to Saqqara.
(Descend into the depths of…SAQQARA!)
Pro tips: The museum and introductory film directly north of the entrance are great – don’t skip them. Bring lots of water or prepare to buy overpriced bottles on site. Watch this documentary before you go. And don’t feel pressured to see all the tombs in one visit. If you live in Egypt, even if temporarily, you can plan to explore 1-2 tombs every few months.
(Play hide-and-go-seek in…SAQQARA!)
Your adventure awaits! Pick a day, get your people, and get on out there. I’ll see you there!
