Dear reader, I know you. You may be new to city life. You may be missing the peace and quiet of the suburbs. Or perhaps you are itching to do a little metropolitan exploring but are concerned about how to wrangle little ones in a museum or out on the streets.
The answer, my friends, is the Ibn Tulun mosque. Deep in Islamic Cairo, this mosque hits all the buttons. The spacious ground floor of the mosque is perfect for children who want to explore. With dozens of nooks and crannies, it’s a hide-and-go-seek paradise. This means that you, parents, get a little break. Let them loose a little and relax. Take some pictures and enjoy the architecture.
(Let your hair down at the Ibn Tulun mosque)
The mosque truly is amazing. Its wow-factor is so high that visiting friends and family won’t stop thanking you for taking them. .And feel free to come on your own. Remember those nooks and crannies? They are perfect for curling up with a book or journal, or simply for people watching.
<insert video clip here>
Not afraid of heights? Then you are in for a treat. You can climb up to the roof of the mosque and enjoy a 360꠶ panorama of Islamic cairo. And as if that weren’t enough, the minaret is also accessible. There are no guard rails or safety features of any kind, only a gatekeeper who will (rightly) insist you hold on tight to your child’s hand. You reach the entrance to the second story and the minaret from the outer courtyard. Just turn left as you leave the inner gate and circle around to this point.
(No guard rail? No problem at the Ibn Tulun mosque!)
Pro tips: To enter the mosque, you will first pass through an outer gate and a courtyard. Unlike regular mosques, you will not be asked to remove your shoes at the door. The gatekeepers will, however, ask you to either put on plastic foot coverings (available for purchase in the entryway) or to completely avoid walking on the rugs within the mosque. We just take off our shoes.
(Enjoying the expansive courtyard of the mosque of Ibn Tulun, shoeless)
After I take off my shoes, I put on a scarf. This is optional. But be forewarned that the gatekeepers will provide abayas for tourists with bare shoulders or short shorts.
(Doors are no joke at the mosque of Ibn Tulun)
Make sure to visit a restroom before you leave your home for the mosque. Squat toilets are available but not recommended. I have a story about me navigating that toilet with my then two year-old son in an Ergo on my back. Fear not – I will not share it here. Suffice it to say: squat toilets are not for the faint of heart or uninitiated unless it is an emergency.
(Keeping far from the edge on the second story of Ibn Tulun)
You can buy water and snacks at any kiosk around the mosque. Just down the street from the mosque is a delicious and popular ful and ta’amiya restaurant. Give it a try after your visit to the mosque.
(Reward yourself with a tasty sandwich after your visit to the mosque)
Transportation: Ibn Tulon mosque is easy to reach via Uber. You can also park anywhere you like on the streets surrounding the mosque, but you’ll need to negotiate the price with the self-appointed young man monitoring the parking. You won’t need to look far – he’ll find you.
(You can’t beat this view from atop the minaret at the Ibn Tulun mosque)
Never forget: public transportation is always an option! It’s not hard. Get off at the el-Sayeda Zeinab metro stop and wend your way out of the station to this point. From here, you can take any of the minibusses or tuk-tuks lingering outside the station exit. You’ll pay 5LE/person for a minibus and up to 20LE for a tuk tuk. Just say “Ahmed Ibn Tulun” to the driver and you’ll be in business. As for getting back home: Remember how you are going to pick up some tasty ful and ta’ameya sandwiches after visiting the mosque? As you eat, you’ll notice dozens of minibusses passing by to your right. Jump on any of these to return to the el-Sayeda Zeinab metro station.
Dear reader, believe me. A trip to the Ahmed Ibn Tulun mosque is a win for everyone – individuals, families, tourists, and old-timers like me. Just go. You’ll thank me for it. I’ll see you there!
