The book was a gift from friends on the eve of our departure to Siwa. My bestie and I were too busy exploring every nook and cranny of the oasis to read it while actually in Siwa, but we cracked it out as we embarked on our red-eye bus ride back to Cairo.
(While away the long summer hours in a traditional garden in Siwa)
What a treasure! We couldn’t get enough of it – one page after another filled with detailed descriptions of Siwan customs. We wondered: how do Siwan people have enough time to live out these traditions? It honestly seemed to us that fulfilling all the customs described in the book would be a fulltime job.
(Raise pigeons the traditional way in Siwa)
I recently returned from my sixth trip to Siwa and I still don’t have a clear answer to this question. One thing is sure: Siwans do have a unique culture to which they cling. Perhaps this is best illustrated by a recent conversation between me and young British friend of mine, born and raised in Siwa, who had just told me that he had attended a wedding the day before:
Me: “So, when did the wedding start?”
(I said this with the expectation that he would reply “9pm,” after which we could then share a little chuckle over how late Egyptian weddings start and end).
My friend, without missing a beat and without a shred of irony:
“Two days ago.”
But of course. Siwan weddings don’t last a matter of hours. They last for days. Three days, in fact, with different bridal attire each day.
(Stay in a traditional home built out of kersheef in Siwa)
One delicious aspect of Siwan culture I will never tire of is abu mardem – a buried grill of local chicken, goat, or lamb meat. Yes, I said buried. You dig a pit, insert a steel drum, place a rack filled with marinated meats within that steel drum, cover the steel drum with a metal lid, and shovel hot sand and coals on top of the lid. Settle down to wait for a few hours. Grill some veggies over the coals while you pass the time. Then the magic moment: thoroughly brush off the sand and coals from the lid and reveal the feast waiting inside. I probably don’t need to tell you what to do next.
(Eat a traditional meal in Siwa)
This aspect of Siwan culture is in no way restricted to residents of the oasis. Go for it! My favorite venue for abu mardem is on a desert safari, but you can also witness mandi magic while at a local restaurant like Ali Aliewa or out at Fatnas Island.
(Take a traditional salt bath in Siwa)
Ah, abu mardem. I won’t say don’t try this at home. Because why not? Please do try it at home! And invite me. I’ll bring the dessert.
