By now, you’ve realized that I march to the beat of a different drummer. This was evident the day that our tour guide announced the plans for lunch after my first ever visit to the Giza pyramids. The guide directed the bus driver to park at an intersection just outside the “lower” gate to the pyramid complex. Here, the tour guide proudly declared to his captive audience of study abroad students, was a treat: a KFC, Burger King, Pizza Hut, and McDonald’s, each occupying a corner of the intersection. All we could ever want, he clearly presumed.
I lingered to be the last in line off the bus. Quietly, so as not to attract the attention of the tour guide, I asked the driver: could he direct me to a local fast food joint? Something authentic?
The driver knew what I was getting at, bless his heart. Conspiratorially, he said “Turn right here, take the first left, cross the street, and then immediately in front of you you’ll find a restaurant selling koshary. Hurry!” I didn’t hesitate. Grabbing a couple of friends we hurried off into the concrete labyrinth of Giza in search of something called koshary. We found it, feasted, and proudly showed our leftovers to envious classmates. And that, my friends, is one of the reasons why I fell head-over-heels in love with Egypt.
If you’ve been in Egypt for any amount of time, you have almost definitely tried this saucy mix of rice, pasta, lentils, chickpeas, and fried onions. I affectionately call this popular fast food dish a “carbfest” – due to its abundance of macaroni and rice – but to be fair, the hearty addition of lentils and chickpeas probably make koshary the original superfood or, at least, a balanced meal. Balanced…and cheap. Some of us have tried to live off a dollar a day in Egypt. I am living proof that this is entirely possible if all you eat is koshary.
Half the fun of eating koshary is watching it being assembled. Koshary chefs really put on a show, banging out a rhythm with their hefty serving spoons on the rims of the iconic metal drums containing each ingredient.
Choose to dine in. It’s not fancy, but it’s just more fun that way. Along with your plate, you will be given a small pitcher of the most exquisite tomato sauce. You are meant to pour it on top of the layers of carbs and legumes. You may, however, consider pouring it directly into your mouth. It is really just that good.
You will also be offered two additional sauces. Now listen carefully, because this is important. The clear, vinegar-based liquid is delicious. Pour it on top of your koshary and you can thank me later. The extra red sauce, however, is to be treated with caution. It is pure fire, so only put it on if you love eating hot coals.
There you have it, friends – the perfect meal. Head to your local koshary restaurant today (try this popular chain) or make it yourself at home. Bil hana wa shifa!
