Nothing is impossible in Egypt…with a little bakseesh.
We had this reconfirmed on a recent trip to the Cairo Citadel Aqueduct. Are you surprised to hear that Cairo has an aqueduct? You’ve almost certainly seen it a hundred times when driving north on the Corniche and have said to yourself “One of these days I’m going to figure out just what that place is all about…” If you’re like me, however, you probably never did look up the place, leaving the crumbling walls of the aqueduct to fade further into obscurity.
(These old medieval stones have withstood time and the wrecking ball)
Well, one day not long ago I sent all my excuses packing. Instead of heading busily downtown, I jumped off my Tahrir-bound minibus at what looked to be the beginning of the aqueduct. I had no particular plan, but then – what’s new? This is how I roll.
(Just another 1000 year-old wall)
I quickly learned that the aqueduct is very much off-limits. An elderly but spry man in a galabeya told me firmly that I needed government permission to explore the place, even if (especially if!) I intended to take photographs for a blog.
(Climbing shoes + baksheesh = excellent parkour)
Enter baksheesh. The line between bakseesh (a tip) and a bribe are a bit fuzzy, but baksheesh is usually harmless. It just has a way of turning “impossible” into ahlan wa sahlan (you are welcome!). Locked doors are opened. Forbidden places are now suddenly available.
Check it out for yourself! Just know that this medieval aqueduct – built by Salah al-Din in 1176AD to provide the Cairo Citadel with water – is not open for sightseeing, photography, or parkour. However, if you are eager to do all three, bring a little baksheesh and see where it gets you. I know I’d like to go again – I’ll see you there!
