(It’s mango season at the High Dam Souq)
Once, years ago, my little family and I spent a summer eating only foods we could get from our local farmer’s markets in Northern Virginia. It was an experiment (could it be done?) and an act of support for local farmers. We ate a lot of zucchini and peaches that summer.
It should not surprise you, then, that I am pretty passionate about local produce and the slow food movement. I am also passionate about understanding Egyptian culture and, to the degree possible, living it.
(Fresh produce at the High Dam Souq)
I realize that this way of life isn’t for everyone. I realize that, for some of you, work – and not passion – brought you to Egypt. Wherever you fall on this spectrum of desire to experience Egypt to its fullest, I urge you to become familiar with your local souq. In a previous post, I introduced you to #The Maadi Metro Souq. Today I want to bring you to the gigantic souq in the heart of Maadi – the High Dam Souq (Souq Sad al-’Ali).
Now, you may be wondering: if it is really that big, how come I’ve never seen it? Possibly you live in Maadi, or visit regularly, and are surprised you’ve never seen it. That’s because expats rarely venture into the neighborhood bordered by the Maadi Yachting and Sporting Club on the south and the train tracks following Road 250 on the east. Well, today is your day. It is safe, the prices are outrageous (read: cheap!), and it will be a great adventure for you to retell later to your friends. Better yet, bring your friends! Let’s go.
Our tour starts at the “Happy Family” supermarket in al-Arab square (Midan al-Arab). I recommend you come by foot or Uber. If you come by personal car, I suggest you park at the Maadi Grand Mall and then join us at Happy Family. Now, I say the tour “starts” here, but really I mean “ends.” We will walk a bit to the beginning of the souq, visit a bunch of great places there, and then end back at Happy Family to cross off any remaining items on our shopping list.
Take this route to the souq entrance. The way can be a bit rough, what with narrow streets frequently causing traffic jams. As there are no sidewalks, you may find yourself weaving through cars and tuk tuks at a standstill. You will also find the way very muddy if you plan your trip after a rainstorm or water main break under the street. At any point along your way, you could jump into a tuk tuk and say loudly to the driver “souq”! (I say “loudly” because it can get pretty noisy down there.) Pay the driver 10 LE when you arrive.
(The more the merrier in a tuk tuk)
Now your tour really begins. I will highlight a handful of great places to visit but urge you to put your phone away and explore with your eyes wide open.
- These small carnival rides. Believe it or not, I used to leave my kids here for 15 minutes so I could shop in the souq unencumbered. It may look like the set of a horror movie, but the old guy who runs the place is really sweet and the rides are (probably) safe. Anyway, even if you opt out, I hope you’ll think of me as you pass by.
- This vegetable stand. While you can visit specialized vegetable vendors in the actual stalls of the souq, I love this stand just outside the souq entrance. Fill up the battered baskets with your desired produce and give them to the guy sitting at the entrance of the stand. He’ll weigh them and tell you the price…in Arabic. He may be able to tell you in English as well, but someone there at the stand will be willing to help translate for you.
- This salad greens lady. As you will quickly notice in the souq, most people specialize; you’ll find stalls that sell (only) mounds of tomatoes, potatoes and onions, carrots and cucumber, etc. The same applies to salad greens, which include lettuce, spinach, arugula, green onions, celery leaves (but not the stalks), and fresh herbs. As a side note, here’s a little story: Once I stopped in at the commissary with a friend on the way back from #Wadi Digla. My friend left disappointed, because it turns out what she really wanted was arugula, and the only arugula – imported – was wilted. She was prepared to pay the price (5USD) but didn’t want limp greens. I told her not to worry: I could hook her up. On our way back home I had her pull over to the salad greens lady near my house. Within seconds my friend had a huge bunch of fresh arugula, all for only half of an Egyptian pound.
- This butcher. I know what you are thinking. It can be scary to buy beef from a shop with carcasses hanging from the ceiling, but I have come to prefer fresh beef over the frozen stuff from the supermarket.
- Magdi’s dry goods shop. If you recall from a previous post, this type is shop is known locally as an ‘ataar. This particular ‘ataar is very popular, so you may have to stand in a bit of line for your turn. Catch the eye of one of the young men working there, point to the item you want, and loudly say “kilo!” to get yourself a one kilo bag of rice, beans, macaroni, chickpeas, etc. You can also get flour (white and whole wheat), oats, and all kinds of spices and herbs.
- This ruqaq stand. What is ruqaq? It is basically a gigantic flour tortilla, and that is exactly what I use it as…with beans and cheese. Now, you may buy tortillas at your local Seoudi, but they are nothing like these freshly made beauties in the souq. And I assure you – ruqaq is cheaper than the cardboard-like tortillas you have been buying. Just trust me. I recommend that you buy one kilo (just point to the pile of freshly baked ruqaq and say “kilo!”) and freeze whatever you think you won’t eat within the next few days. Ruqaq contains no preservatives, so it won’t stay soft for long. Side note: this stand also sells fresh feteer and phyllo and kunafa dough.
- This pumpkin stand. This is where we get our pumpkins for Halloween (carving) and Thanksgiving (baking). These pumpkins won’t look like your standard Jack-O-Lanterns but are just as fun to carve…and even better to eat.
- This poultry shop. You can choose your own chicken and watch it being butchered, or simply ask for breast (sidr), legs and thights (werk), or deboned thighs (shish tawook) from their stock in the refrigerator. Go for it! It is fresh and (a bit) cheaper than the supermarket. But not by much; meat and poultry prices have risen astronomically in recent times.
Now – wander! There’s so much more to see. When you are finished, head on back to the Happy Family supermarket. If your arms are full or you’re tired, take a tuk tuk! 10 LE should get you back to the Happy Family. I usually toss my bags from the souq into a shopping cart and pick up the few remaining must-haves that you can’t get from the souq (e.g. cheddar cheese and mayonnaise). I often visit the “soaps and plastics” shop next door (two storefronts to the right as you face the supermarket and down some stairs) and stock up on paper plates, cups, cleaning supplies, garbage bags, tin foil, etc. Any type of soap, detergent, plastic or paper product you can dream of…they have it.
At this point, you can consider yourself a local. I hope you’ll do it again. And again. And bring others! I’ll see you there!
